Richard Mille 11-03 Rose Gold
Richard Mille RM11-03
For fans, whether its Timex Rolex or Richard Mille every brand has its icons.
In the case of Richard Mille it is more than fair to say that the RM11-03 is legendary.
First launched in 2016 as an update to the then decade old RM011, this is one of Mille’s most iconic pieces. It is instantly recognisable and regardless of which particular guise it is in, a firm favourite with collectors.
It is essentially the second generation of the RM011 and sticks with the same motorsport theme.
Before we get to the nuts and bolts of the watch - As I was mulling this review, it struck me that Richard Mille and Formula One have things in common above and beyond a brand using the tracks to test their “racing machine” watches and the relationship that followed with Felipe Massa and McLaren.
The first thing being that both F1 and RM are staggeringly expensive to get into.
Of course this is not news as it is an often heard gripe about Richard Mille, and one that I’m very confident that I’ve made myself over the years without even thinking about it, after all, RM is a “new” brand in the grand scheme of haute horology, and it has the absolute cheek to price itself amongst the creme de la creme of holy trinities price-wise.
How dare this late-arrival-to-the-game upstart carry a similar price-tag to a Patek perpetual calendar chronograph for example, particularly in a world where the competition is for the slimmest, the most compact, the most complications packed into a cuff friendly case, and where Richard Mille is usually the antithesis of such things because they are big, bold, and some would say - brash.
Well, much like Formula One, everything has been built from the round up, which takes a metric F-ton of both research, development, and production.
In the same way that F1 cars don’t share bodywork, clutches, nuts bolts and flywheels with a Vauxhall Corsa, for example, there is nothing on a Richard Mille that hasn’t been created from specifically for the brand.
The tri-part tonneau case with architectural column sides - RM.
The splines that hold it together - RM
Strap to head locking blades - RM.
Double printed sapphire dials - RM
Skeletonised date wheels - RM
Wheel rim crown and brake pedal pushers - RM.
Movements suspended from wire for shock absorption - RM
Use of quartz and other space age materials for cases and movements - RM
Granted there are a few brands that have “caught on” and use similar manufacturing techniques these days, but it would be doing Richard Mille a great disservice to ignore the fact that they blazed the trail on these innovations, and for watches that are produced in low numbers.
The work that has gone into them, much like racing cars, must cost an absolute bomb, so in that respect, I can forgive the price-tag.
On to the 11-03.
The most notable difference between this and its predecessor the RM011 is that the case has seen a redesign from the smooth sided tonneau of the 11 to include protrusions on the 11-03 which are echoed on both sides of the case to create a “nobbly bobbly” effect which is really quite striking.
They appear to be present to offer additional protection to the splines, crown and pushers, or perhaps they are a design choice to echo the pillars of the titanium flanks of the middle case. Either way, I like them.
As per usual this is a 3 part case held together with splines, the heads of which make up the signature 5 point “stars” on the bezel and case-back.
Font and rear case is presented in 18ct rose gold with a mid case machined from titanium to reduce some weight and create a pleasing contrast between metals.
Gaskets throughout give you 50m of water resistance which although isn’t peak, it’s acceptable for a watch using this kind of architecture.
Broadly, the 11-03 is the same size as the RM011 at 44mm diameter with a lug to lug of 50mm and sits at 16mm tall.
Its a big watch.
Think beefy wrist hugger as the ergonomically curved case-back and integrated strap both arc around the wrist allowing the watch to sit very comfortably despite its stats.
The 11-03’s form is designed for comfort and visual impact - and it succeeds.
An interesting (if you don’t get out much) sidebar on the case: It was built by Montres Valgine, a tip-top family run manufacturer that has been operating for around 120 years.
They know their craft inside out and in 1999/2000 Dominique Guenat and Yves Mathys from Montreal Valgine joined forces with Richard Mille (the man himself) to create the RM brand, hence Valgine’s input on cases and signature V hallmark stamped on to the case-back and clasp.
On the subject of the clasp it is always wise to remember that Richard Mille as well as being a stand-alone company in its own right, is also the result of brains collaborating with brains to achieve the best result.
The leaf spring clasp used by Richard Mille was designed and executed by G & F Chatelain, another hundred plus year old company which specialises in case and clasp making.
Due to their machining abilities, Chatelain were purchased by Chanel in the late nineties and are now known for producing watches such as the award winning J12.
If you’re not a fan of the J12, then the mechanism of the Richard Mille clasp is definitely something to be impressed by as it is one of the finest in the business and uses tension rather than a butterfly system to snap shut and stay there.
The dial, though, is the star of the show.
Yes, its busy and a riot of white green red and yellow but at the same time it is supremely readable at a glance.
If you study the level of finishing going on amongst the subdials, dial frame and openwork - it is spectacularly well done, and I give a nod to the skeletonised grand date wheel here, as I love it.
There is a double layer of sapphire covering the dial, beneath the main crystal sits another which has all of the relevant printing on it such as the white arabic numerals and RM11-03 text which appears in green to match the tachymeter.
At the bottom right of the dial sits the “month” feature, as remember that the 11-03 has dual complications - flyback chrono and annual calendar meaning that not only is it an excellent stopwatch, it also only needs to be reset once per year to accommodate the date change in February.
Chronograph counter-wise you have small seconds at 3, hours at 6 and the minute counter at 12. These counters are designed to be reminiscent of the cockpits of F1 vehicles.
Having never been in one of those, I’m going to leave it at definitely reminiscent of a dashboard.
The movement powering the beast is Richard Mille’s calibre RMAC3, a whopping 68 jewel Vaucher based movement which took several years to develop.
It’s adjusted in 5 positions to ensure excellent chronometry and offers 55 hours of power reserve thanks to twin barrels. It’s also supremely lightweight being made of grade 5 titanium.
The movement uses a “Variable geometry” rotor which can be adjusted to match the activity of its wearer. This is achieved by moving the wing shaped weights attached to the rotor. If you have a sedentary lifestyle these can be calibrated to make the rotor work to power the movement with as little movement as possible, and conversely, if you’re highly active the rotor can be slowed to balance this out as well.
All very nifty.
All things considered, this is a classic Richard Mille. It’s a stalwart of the collection available in many iterations ranging from quartz TPT to Rose Gold. Its build quality and attention to detail is second to none.
The only question really is whether you appreciate the styling as there is little else to fault beyond matters of personal style.
The 11-03 though?
100% on the substance front.