GRAIL OF GRAILS? The elusive Sapphire Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/111p
Patek Nautilus 5711/111P (sap) or 5711/112P (ruby)
"If you strike me down I shall become more powerful than you could possibly imagine.”
Obi-Wan Kenobi and the Patek Nautilus 5711.
It would be fair to say that the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 *the* most sought after steel sports watch of my lifetime.
It has reigned supreme since its introduction in 2006, although the Nautilus has been in production for much longer, the 5711 is the modern 40mm variant, and shows no sign of conceding its status any time soon despite being discontinued, much to everyones vexation in 2022.
It’s reputation lies in versatility.
The Nautilus is one of those go anywhere, do anything watches. It’s slimline enough to fit under the cuff, formal enough to wear with a suit, and waterproof enough (120m) to breeze through anything that the beach and some scuba diving can throw at it.
There are not many sport watches that can claim such all-rounder status. Its closest competitor, the Royal Oak is water resistant to a comparatively shallow 50 metres.
The Submariner is a robust dive watch and covers casual very well, but arguments still rage about its suitability as a dressier piece due to the rotating bezel.
The Daytona can pass under a cuff and swim to 100m but as a chronograph it doesn’t hold the same uncomplicated appeal.
For collectors, of course, this is irrelevant since they use different horses for different courses, but the Nautilus is still the number one and the simple 3 handers tower above the rest of the lineup on the most wanted lists.
The other factor for the 5711’s enduring popularity is rarity, regardless of variant.
This is a similarly unicorn edition, and is reference 5711/111P - full platinum with a sapphire bezel and indexes.
Conservatively, I have to say that its a spectacular piece but how could it not be? Its a 5711 in platinum.
The weight on wrist is an absolute pleasure, the heft of platinum has been well counter balanced by the fact that the Nautilus is a slim piece with a broad head. It wears absolutely perfectly, and as if that wasnt enough, the bezel is gleaming with 32 baguette sapphires that are channel set without gaps to create a completely flush fit with no visible metal between the stones.
An interesting note is that the baguettes follow the flow of the octagonal bezel precisely meaning each one is angled to curve around the angles of the bezel lines which is infinitely more complex than it looks at face value.
Each stone is set entirely by hand and gems are never bonded with adhesive. Patek are, unsurprisingly, on top of their game here.
Practically speaking, the baguette bezel completely obliterates the traditional concerns of those who wear Genta designed watches such as the Royal Oak and Nautilus who are probably very aware that the brushed metal bezels of the watch can pick up hairlines just by being looked at the wrong way.
It’s perversely entertaining to think that additional decoration which is occasionally frowned by purists upon serves to upgrade the Nautilus from “Mind that doorknob” to “Tougher than Statham” status
The case is identical to any other 5711 so has specs of 40mm diameter, 8.6mm thick with a lug to lug width of 48.5mm if we include the integrated end link - which we should whenever measuring integrated pieces.
The platinum finishing is identical to the steel models with alternating mirror polish and satin areas.
Its worth noting that this sort of detail is much harder to achieve on platinum than it is other metals so hats off to the finishers here.
There is also a subtle top wessleton diamond nestled into the lower edge of the bezel at 6, a signature addition on Patek’s platinum pieces, so whenever you check the time, you have the glint of a diamond to remind you of what you’re wearing.
The dial has a smoked black gradient, which moves from charcoal in the centre to black at the outer, and is decorated with 12 baguette sapphire/rubies to form the indices, no lume on them, but the glint should make them easy enough to read beyond sundown.
The white gold hands are lumed, which also helps, and rather niftily, the seconds hand is blue / ruby red, to blend in with the theme, which is a seriously nice and well thought out touch.
Despite being a diamond clad platinum lump of Patek, this watch has exactly the same water capabilities as its steel counterparts - 120m which always pleases me as my watch manufacture pet peeve is the loss of capability which appears to be associated with the addition of diamonds in some cases - not so here.
The movement is calibre 324SC has 45 hours of power reserve and quick set date but no hacking seconds, that said you can hack them yourself if you want to be “dead on” by applying back pressure to the crown which stops the sweep.
All things considered and vintage 3700 aside, this is quite possibly peak Nautilus for me. The platinum turns it from feather light to noticeable on wrist without being uncomfortable, the sapphires/rubies add just the right amount of pizzaz, and its exceptionally limited on the market.
I’ve always been a die-hard steel fan, but if we put values aside, this is PEAK Nautilus.
I don't think I can offer higher praise than that.