A. Lange & Söhne! The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 720.038FE
A Lange and Sohn Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 720.038
We have got an absolute SMASHER from Saxony for you today. This is the A Lange and Sohn Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 720.038.
This is a bit of a back to front review, as while the front is very attractive indeed, the calibre in this watch is just spectacular.
A Lange and Sohn are known for both their complications and their finishing standards, and this particular piece showcases both.
The 72 jewelled movement ( calibre L802.1) is made from German silver which is hand decorated with anglage, perlage, Geneva stripes, heat blued screws, chaton cupped rubies, and freehand floral engraving.
Because this level of detail and finishing is never enough for ALS, there’s also a faceted diamond cap stone on the toubillon bridge which is placed as a tribute to the brand’s pocket watches.
The tourbilon on this model, rather than being visible through a cut-out in the dial, is placed at the rear. Still visible, but elegantly positioned so that it doesnt detract from the information provided by the dial.
This is a stop seconds tourbillon so when the crown is pulled out, you can watch the tourbillon stop dead, which is an interesting feature for those who play with their watches as well as being one that is responsible for stabilising timekeeping by negating positional variation - nice.
The movement is automatic with power provided by a precious bi-metal rotor which features a “pebble” decorated 21 carat gold mid-section with a platinum outer crescent that provides the weight element and keeps the watch wound to a 50 hour power reserve.
Even the detailing on the rotor is wild with super crisp embossed branding.
I’m not exaggerating when I say that the level of finishing that A Lange and Sohne is absolutely A-Grade and with little competition from the Swiss.
Now I’ve finished mooning over the movement, stats are 42mm in diameter, 12.7mm thick with a lug to lug length of 50mm.
Its a sizeable watch but not “too big” for any but the slimmest wrists. It has a 22mm lug width which balances the head really well and makes it an extremely comfortable watch to wear. 22mm is also an easy size to play with if you fancy a change from black alligator to something less formal. That said, the strap with its broad scales and calfskin underside is pretty much perfect.
The case is 18 carat white gold and consists of a broad polished and domed bezel with a satinated mid-case and caseback so theres a nice mix of finishing on display with some calendar adjustment pushers embedded into the side.
The watch is complicated so the case has sensibly been kept simple and without any additional flourishes that may be overpowering or detract from the display.
The dial is made of solid silver topped with an almost matte grey finish which is exceptional and provides great contrast for the white text and white gold hands and indices that guide you around the perpetual calendar information.
Even though there’s quite a lot going on here, there’s plenty of space and nothing feels cramped or like an afterthought.
The months are printed on a chapter ring surrounding the dial.
Once set, the correct month sits beneath an applied triangular month indicator at 6. Just above the month indicator sits a trapezoidal window which has been designed to look like an extension of the indicator (clever)
This window will read 1-4 depending on where you are in the leap year cycle.
Days of the week are to the left of the dial, and use a retrograde hand to point at them.
At midnight on Sunday the hand will snap back down from top to bottom as it begins marking a new week.
A framed grand date occupies the “11” area, and the time sits over to the right with a lovely pair of leaf hands that have been capped in the centre.
At the base of this sub-dial sits the day-night indicator which is handy for setting the perpetual calendar.
Those who have done it before will be able to confirm that patient and exact setting turns into what can only be described as “a bummer” when you discover that you’ve set midday to midnight.
As this is a perpetual calendar - set it right and you shouldnt need to change it until 2100 which is both technically reassuring and a very good excuse to purchase a winder.
Small seconds and moon-phase are taken care of at the 7 subdial, and as Lange is Lange, the moonphase disk is printed on white gold.
To conclude, this is a staggeringly attractive offering from A Lange and Sohne. The subtle tourbillon is a joy to watch in action, the perpetual calendar is always a useful complication and this one has been laid out extremely cleanly. Legibility is great, proportions are absolutely spot on and this watch really feels refined and “adult” without being tweedy.
I can completely understand collectors who start looking towards Lange when they’ve completed their Swiss-only storylines, and one day im going to follow them!